Thursday, 15 September 2016

The Scenic Trail around the Bay of Fundy

Another early start to the day, ready for our next road trip along the Bay of Fundy Scenic Drive.  We are on the road by half past eight and the morning is foggy, although not a pea-souper, so we can see a little way.  We fail to find the Lepreau covered bridge that was indicated on the map, but do come across Lepreau Falls.  Theses are reasonably impressive given that they have had very little rain here lately.  Plus we are the only ones there. 


The scenic route is a blue sign marked with a lighthouse and it takes us down some small roads to the coast (I guess that's why it's called the coastal route!).  Our first real coastal hit comes at Maces Bay, a derelict pier appears out of the mist,
 and in tradition with our penchant for finding weird roadside objects ...
As we approach St George the sun decides to put in appearance, although the fog is still hanging around.  Eider and Black Guilliemots abound in the water.
We pass Musquash Marine Reserve

As we missed the last covered bridge when we see a sign for the next one we decide to take a four km detour to see it.  Good bit of saltmarsh on the way but only Canada Geese observed.
From a distance...
And close up.  Why, we ask, did they insist on covering bridges. Before you hit Google for an answer, we checked and it's still not clear. To keep snow off? maybe. To protect open top carriage travellers? maybe. To protect the bridge structure itself? maybe. The last one seems most feasible, but we'd have to ask the original builders for a definitive answer. There are so many in this part of North America and so few elsewhere that that isn't too convincing.
We have to return to the main road the same way.

Onward towards St John, which was the first incorporated city of Canada (so now we've seen both).  It's a very industrial looking town, although apparently has a rich history.  We are only passing through here though. As we do we spot this cruise liner in dock - it's the same one that our pilot told us prevented us from landing on time at Boston Logan airport.  Very distinctive whale tail funnel - we could see this very clearly out of the plane window and here it was again.

Turn off the main highway onto those scenic side roads again - not much traffic at the moment!
This is the furthest distance we've been able to see for a while as there are lots of trees.

Following on from the theme of roadside objects of interest - some coloured biplanes hanging in the trees along the way.

As we approach St Martin we find that we needn't have bothered with that detour earlier, just when you're not expecting a covered bridge, two turn up at once.  We even had to drive through one of them.


There are some interesting sea caves in St Martin

We briefly leave the Bay of Funday Coastal Trail, but only for another, the Fundy Scenic Parkway. This one is on privately owned land but the Fundy Trail is run on a not-for-profit basis.  The lady in the kiosk collecting the money asks us where we are from and is delighted when we tell her, she jokingly asks if she can come home with us!  Ideally it would be best to explore this area by bike or by foot (or even wheelchair).  It has a 46 km dedicated trail. We are taking the lazy option as there is also a driving route with lots of observation points and trails of various lengths emanating from the parking areas.   They are apparently also well endowed with 'washrooms' or ''restrooms', which in our language are the toilets (it is considered impolite to call it that here). Taking a comfort break at one of these turns out to be a little more of an adventure than bargained for. The washrooms are in the parking stations, but hidden in woodland.  Find a wooden hut with a difficult to open catch on the door, dark inside apart from the glow issuing from the white plastic tube serving as the receptacle for ablutions, and just a tad smelly. Time to leave but door won't open. Panic rises quickly and wondering how long before someone comes this way to hear any cries for help. Deep breathing and some calm thoughts are called for. Eventually, after scrabbling around with the door catch in the dark, the door opens and freedom beckons. Phew, that's a relief.

Return to observation point to find Eric calmly reviewing the information.
The sun didn't last for too long and the fog returned somewhat.  I'm sure the views that are pretty good would be stunning in the sunshine.

This is the Salmon River Observation point Eric informs us.

This time we are making our way to Riverside Albert, where we are staying overnight.  Check in is at three so we reckon we can make that and find time to visit Hopewell Rocks at low tide, so that we can 'walk on the ocean floor' (advertising /marketing bumpf).

 The road is long (another song title?) and the traffic situation is still the same.

Next stop, Alma - the Gateway to Fundy National Park.  Also the home of a giant moose.
 A quick check-in and we off again.  At Hopewell Rocks we find that our ticket will allow us to go in on two consecutive days, so we should be able to see the rocks at low tide this evening and high tide tomorrow morning.

Eric checks out the tide times to make sure it's safe to go down to the beach. 
They call them 'The Flowerpot Rocks' - The rock has gradually been eroded into these weird shapes by the huge tides in the Bay of Fundy - they are even bigger tides than in the Bristol Channel. Although we don't normally like having people in the photos, at least they give some sort of scale.
Down on the 'ocean floor' they are quite impressive. It was also amazingly difficult to obtain a photo of them with no people in it! But we did it in the end and here they are:

We thought this one looked rather like a dinosaur head rearing up.
Eric wondered what we were talking about as it doesn't look like a dinosaur head from his angle.
A further observation deck at the top gives views of Daniel's Flats, the tidal mudflats exposed when the tide is out.  They provide excellent feeding habitat for shore birds and this is one of the main migratory stops for some, although we are just a tad too late to have seen them in any numbers (if at all).
Next stop is of course for a cup of tea. The restaurant has a good view, good tea, and good blueberry muffin.

The serviettes are also very large, as demonstrated by Eric.  Sorry for those of you not in the know but this is a bit of an in joke for our main readership.
Eric meets the Hopewell Rocks moose.
Of course, there's also the gift shop to visit.

Look at the size of that thing!
Would this hat suit?
No purchases made we leave to visit Cape Enrage on the way back to the B&B.  

More unusual sightings were spotted along the way.  We had to double-back for this one as were weren't sure whether to believe our eyes - camping, but with the tent inside a wooden structure?!
More questions as to why go to the trouble to build most of a shed then give up and then put a tent in it. Either put in more effort and call it a house or less and just have a tent. 

Saltmarsh and reclaimed land - similar to Gwent Levels. Still no birds though.
Cape Enrage really is ''Wild' as advertised - the wind nearly blows us away, and Eric has to stay in the car. 

The lighthouse has a green flashing light which is visible from the landward side which is fairly unusual. 

By this time it is just beginning to get dark. Much earlier than yesterday because of the overcast conditions, so back to the B&B to put together this entry. We also spent some time chatting to guests at the house who were from Tennessee. Shared some interesting views on the state of US politics and the merits or otherwise of the presidential candidates. We felt quite unable to advise after the way the Brexit vote went at home.