Wednesday, 21 September 2016

A Spectacular Coastal Drive

Time to leave the end of the world and drive along the north coast of Gaspesie along the south shore of the St Lawrence seaway. A brilliantly sunny morning, another good breakfast, and we hit the right road. As we cross the inland route around Forillion National Park the trees are just starting to change to their Autumn colours, with some red tips of the trees offset by the green and yellows of others. The photos we took do not do it justice at all.

The Quebec provincial government has very conveniently put what they call 'Haute Municipal' and panoramic viewpoints along the way.  These were nearly always well placed in terms of views and  most were equipped with an array of picnic tables plus the essential 'Toilettes'for a road trip.
The weather was a lot finer today, but as we travelled further west, the wind was something else. Eric hangs onto the flagpole to prevent him from being blown away.

A slight detour was taken after seeing a sign for Pointe de la Renommee, a Marconi signalling station, part of the establishment of a marine wireless telegraph system. The road soon becomes gravel but still a good road, winding up and down amongst the trees. The sign says the Renommee is four kilometres away. Mmm, shall we carry on? Yes, why not. We have plenty of time to stop and look today.

Turned out there was a lighthouse and a pretty good view there too. It seemed to be more sheltered here and Eric was able to pose on what would otherwise have been a precarious position.

There were some rather pretty deep mauve Eyebright in the grassland.

Further along, this sign raises a degree of concern as we are not sure what sort of avoiding action we could take. There is a near vertical cliff on the landward side. 

I guess you could say we are between a rock and a wet place.  Although if it comes over this then they must be pretty big waves. Luckily the tide is out at the moment (on the other hand it might have been quite exciting).
The driving is like this for about 20 miles or more along the coast, but is spoilt for about a mile and a half where they decide to separate the sea from the road with two rows of sea wall boulders, meaning you can't see the water. We have started a strongly worded letter of complaint to Quebec tourism.  Spoiling a view like that to stop a few cars being washed into the sea occasionally. Health and safety gone mad I think!

A selection of views to either make you jealous or more likely to bore you with.

You may think that Eric is studying this rock for fossils following our visit to Miguasha UNESCO World Heritage Geological site, but no, he is using it to stop himself from being blown away again.
Some of the roads are quite steep, and there are a number of villages scattered along the way - 
although hardly anyone is about and not much open.


Did this church tower originally have walls and they've been blown away?
It's very difficult to avoid all the power lines when taking quick shots from the roadside. Luckily there was not much traffic.


The road goes to the right hand side of this cliff.

We made for Sainte-Madeline-de-la-Rivière-Madeline (that's one heck of a mouthful of a name) and the Rue de Phare - this is Lighthouse Road in English. According to our Gourmand Gaspe guide there was a cafe next to the lighthouse that included a patisserie, and it was just about time for a cup of tea and cake.  

The lighthouse was looking a little worse for wear.

Eric also found a place to pose as a pirate, he couldn't get his friends to be the mermaid or Neptune though. 

The cafe was at least open, but they seemed to have stopped doing the gourmand food. The tea was welcome and we tell ourselves that we are keeping the local economy afloat with our cookie purchase, even though it is somewhat lacking on the gourmet front. The lady is very helpful, gives us a map of attractions and sends us on our way with a smile. 

The lighthouse overlooks a bay and sandbar.

We see hundreds of Gannet and multiple rafts of Eider plus some other species.
The Gannet must be circling over a fish shoal as suddenly a whole plethora of them plunge into the water. That's all the little splashes they are making.


Not only that but just as we near the brow of a hill - 🐋- a whale 'spouting' - no place to stop though darn it.

One of those municipal picnic spots - driftwood sculptures seem to be the theme of this area. This one has a small wind turbine on the back and when it went around the head nodded back and fore. Eric was waiting to see if the leg would move as well.
Eric asks if we can fit this 'pebble' in the boot

As we approach our destination, behind the coast is the Parc National de Gaspesie and the Chic Choc  Mountains. There are Caribou and Coyote and Bears and Moose up there! No time this trip for that sort of nonsense though. Sigh. But at least we've seen some live Porcupine.

A bit of a rocky beach...
And some eagle eyed spotted shows us an American Kestrel or could it be a Merlin? on the beach. Later ID awaits confirmation.

We arrive fairly early out our overnight stop today so have time to kill before check in. We make sure we find the place first, though you can't really miss this one.

So we set off to see what the rest of Sainte-Anne-des-Monts has to offer. 
A view back to our B&B for a start, though it is actually called an Auberge.  
A Gandalf type wood carving
A VERY weird wind sculpture
A beach. Is that a stretchy 'anvil' cloud we see? We thought the front of it looked very like a face, with arms or wings coming out form the side.
You'll have to use your imagination.
A walkway or promenade. Eric soaks up the rays.
A Shuffleboard or Joue de Palets game in progress
A veritable riot of wooden sculptures. 
Eric asks 'Is this one of those space ships from War of the Worlds'
A river 
A crab
A storm cloud - oh my gosh - better get back to the Auberge quick.
Still time to spy a Plover and some Ducks

Booked in and awaiting dinner, the rain has passed over quickly and we have a rather good sunset.


We do love a good sunset.

Dinner was delicious despite an awkward vegetarian.