Saturday, 24 September 2016

Belugas, Seals and Birds

A very lazy start to the day with a leisurely breakfast.  It is a bit chilly for a dip in the Gite pool.  Even though the pool temperature is at 28 degrees, the air temperature is considerably below that, and the wind chill factor would take it lower still. But no complaints from us as the sun is out again.  

Said garden and pool.

We are about to set out for a walk when one of the owners asks if we would like to go out on a zodiac boat and see some belugas.  He kindly rings the company for us; we can go in ten minutes, but he insists we will need some warm clothes.  Despite our protestations that we have some warmer clothes upstairs including waterproofs, he goes off and comes back with a jumper (or technically a cardigan) apiece for us. As we do not have much time he walks with us on a quick way to the quay - through what appears to be other peoples' gardens! 

Madame et Monsieur (that's us) and the chien (ergo Eric) are given pride of place at the front of the boat, the remainder of the party pile on behind us (about 12 in all).  We are having a tour of the islands of Kamouraska, five in all. Two are privately owned and three are wildlife refuges owned by the Canadian Government.  The area is particularly important for migrating birds and Eider Duck. 

Eric really enjoys sitting on the bow.

Cruising past some substantial rocks there are Gulls, lots of Cormorant (a ubiquitous bird that seems to fly in flocks or skeins here), and two Bald Eagle, just sitting there calmly.  The guide is speaking to the rest of the group in French but does give a précis for us in English as well. He explains that last week they have seen deer and recently they saw a moose on one of the islands. Now that would be something, and a lot safer than seeing one when we are in the car.   There is a cool north westerly wind blowing and we are glad for the extra jumpers lent to us, and our waterproof trousers. Even though the guide had told us we would not get wet, the spray was coming over the bow of the boat and we were being bounced around on the bench seat. Good fun but a bit wet. The real camera had to go away before the lens had too much salt spray on it.  The glasses needed to stay on but needed a darned good wash later.

An illustration of how choppy it was - this wasn't my bad photography! That is the yaw of the boat in the swell.


Believe it or not that is a Beluga whale in the distance. We did have much closer views but trying to take a photo with the phone in this swell was a trial.  Besides it is better to look than to see them only through the lens of a camera. We saw some young Beluga, which are grey, they don't turn white until they are about six years old.  They live until they are about sixty, and the population here in the St Lawrence is very threatened.
We also see a mother and baby, several adults and some juveniles. Some even swim underneath the boat as we are stopped, and one within about six feet of the back of the boat (as you may recall we are at the front!). It was very good though and the guide said we were lucky today. They don't advertise the trip as a whale watch as they do not see them consistently, so it is more about the other wildlife.

On the return we pass some Seals or Phoque (the guide makes a bit of a joke here because the pronounciation is like a swear word in English, so he makes sure we know that he is talking about the seals and not swearing).

Back on dry land we divest ourselves of the multiple warm layers back at the accommodation and set out for a tour of the delights of Kamouraska.  The house we are staying at was built in 1818 and the whole place was apparently the first Canadian tourist resort. People used to flock here in the 1800s from the large cities in Canada and parts of the US in order to swim in the waters and be rejuvenated. So it has been a tourist resort for a long time.  It is certainly very peaceful and clam here.

We walk to the end of the village in one direction and down to the water, 
An anguiline net ( or something for catching eels to you and me).
parade along the waterfront to a reserve at the end 
And more eel catching paraphernalia.

Along the way we see a variety of birds feeding in the mud and seaweed:




Plus an unusual 'bird' in the sky.

and then it's back past the shops, including a patisserie and several Ateliers d'Art.
A few purchases made we head towards the wharf for a sit down. 


Eric meets a rather cute puppy.
Then, since this dog was being carried, decides he wants a bit of a ride too, as we have walked quite a long way.
We pass the art museum, which is reminiscent of the previous 'Trump Towers' although nowhere near as elaborate.
And some rather pretty white Rosa rugosa bushes.

We need to mention that the few random purchases included a Tart au Citron, which we share at a picnic table by the wharf, keeping the pear and almond tart for later back at the Gite when we will undoubtedly have a cup of his delicious tea.
 
Our dinner tonight is back at the same location as yesterday since it seems the best establishment in town, and we know caters for those of obtuse eating habits. It holds a surprise again when the already interesting sounding Fleur d’oignon frit à la bière et sa trempette looked like -

Oh My Gosh! That wasn't what was expected at all.  It is supposed to be Tapas and remembering that battered Zucchini flowers are popular in restaurants at home, we thought it was a variant of this only using onion flowers instead, not an a onion in a flower shape! It was huge! But very tasty in small doses, as were what the English version of the menu described as  Kamouraska Lamb Kabobs (sic). Maybe they also have trouble with autocorrect on their menu software. 


Another day another sunset.