Saturday, 10 September 2016

Bar Harbor - Hot Hot Hot

A relaxing start to the day with blueberry waffles, maple syrup, Dijon potatoes and melon for breakfast. Followed by a couple of toasted muffins, but leave the chocolate cake on health grounds. 


We have planned to do an easy hike within Acadia National Park today.  We can even reach the start via a free bus service, which is awesome - new bus adventures in a foreign country.  We head down to the village green where we pick up a National Park Pass, and the bus. 

Eric enjoys the bus ride.

The first hike of the day is not too far away and we arrive at Sand Beach in about twenty minutes.  It's a little on the misty side but very warm already.  

One of the other guests at our accommodation had recommended a trail that she thought we would enjoy - The Great Head Trail. 

Eric show us where we will be walking.

It starts at the far end of Sand Beach so an enjoyable walk across the sand leads us to the 'trailhead'.  The little guide book tells us to climb to the top of the granite steps, turn right and follow the path above the south shore.  The path to the left was quite well formed and wide.  The path to the right was a little rougher and narrower, but we followed the instructions and set off to the right. 

Eric decide he'd like a bit of a ride.

The path became narrower and then turned into boulders.  We climbed on for a bit before our way seemed to be blocked by trees. A decision was made to return to the top of steps and see where we'd gone wrong.  Meeting some other walkers we ask them if they know which way to go - they point to a small blue rectangle marked on a tree and say they think we should follow those, so we do, even though it's left from the top of the steps not right!

It's a pleasant enough walk that meanders slowly uphill, and we also come across an upright log with 'Great Head Trail' and an arrow on it - we take this as a good sign we should head in that direction. The path gradually becomes narrower and rougher before this too becomes slabs of granite and boulders to climb across and over, but at least this time there are those same blue rectangles painted regularly along the route.  We make it to the top (or should I say 'Overlook' as they call a viewpoint here).  The mist is still hanging around but the tops of some islands are just becoming visible, 

so we sit and chill for a while.  The mist lifts further, revealing Egg Island and it's lighthouse.

There are some birds flitting around, we recognise the Black-capped Chikadee, and there's one sitting on a bush that sounds like a Stonechat, but it's just a silhouette against the mist and the sea, so no positive idea.  There's also a little grey one skulking around amongst the rocks.  


The crickets calling here make a sound like a bandsaw.  

The mist lifts and the views are fabulous although the sun is hot hot hot. We feel a bit like wilted lettuce as not used to this kind of heat and humidity. 



We continue on across the slabs and boulders all the time following the blue rectangles. Eric finds some of them for us. 

This walk was very popular with the Victorians, and they built a tea house on the top, as you do, just where the best views were, but it is now in ruins. They were an intrepid lot the Victorians, I can just imagine them coming on this walk with their long skirts and boots. There are further splendid views along the way, (this 525ft hill is called The Bee Hive)

and some tricky descents that require climbing backwards down some small rock faces - slightly more challenging than you're average easy walk!  We eventually come out on the path that was to the right of the granite steps - we were unaware of the blue markers at that early stage and so hadn't spotted one pointing up a slight cleft at right-angles to the path on our original start to the walk.  All's well that ends well anyway! 

Try to decide whether to have a paddle in the sea to cool down before we go onward on the bus but decide it will too difficult to dry our feet.  Jumping back on the bus we go one step further on, to Thunder Hole.  This is a cleft in the rock that can funnel the sea and create a large spout of water jetting up in the air.  This happens on a high tide, with the best results when it's a bit stormy. Unfortunately we are there at low tide. We settle for a ice-cold Blueberry soda from the shop. The bottle was applied to neck and wrists prior to drinking so it was doubly delicious.  

Now hop on the Park Loop bus and ride it, past some spectacular viewpoints, all the way to Jordon Pond, a large lake with a circular walk.  There is a restaurant here that is famous as once again it was used in Victorian times, when they used to serve tea and popovers (a hollow roll made with egg batter, a sort of light fluffy sweet Yorkshire pudding).  The tradition of serving these has been continued ever since.  The place was heaving and there was booking system to get into the restaurant so we decided to give that a miss, opting for a stroll in as much shade as we could find at Jordon Pond.  Found a pleasant place to sit and look across the water to the Bubble Rocks, 

Eric poses in front of Jordon Pond and Bubble Rocks (the two tall ones in the background).

also spotting a Red-breasted Merganser. The water was so clear we could see it as it dived under the water.  It's quite difficult to spot initially as it blends in with the rocks. Good camouflage. 

We return to Bar Harbor on the Park Loop bus and, after some recovery time in the cool of our room, head out to drive to Cadillac Mountain - earlier we had thought we might get off the bus and hike to the top, but the heat had beaten us. The car tells us it is 89 degrees Fahrenheit outside (that's about 32 degrees Centigrade, I guess the former reading sounds far more impressive but it's too flipping hot whatever! The car park is still pretty full and plenty of people around.  The views were almost 360 degrees.

Panorama followed by some super ate shots.



That's Bar Harbor nestling in amongst the trees, with a cruise ship anchored offshore.

 Eric enjoyed himself pointing out the various signage relating to the views. 

Back to the B&B for a refreshing cup of tea we bump into the couple that had advised us on which walk to try. This time they mention that they are going out about 6:30 to look for beavers. Beavers! We'd like some of that action so they show us where they've been told they are.  Try two places fairly close together close to Eagle Lake. The first is looking a bit dry and sad, and although there is a beaver lodge there it doesn't look too hopeful. There are lots of dragonflies and frogs though.

The dragonflies were moving too quickly to photograph. 

We move to Duck Brook Road. Even if we don't see any beavers this is a beautiful spot to come, the evening light on the marsh provides a good photographic opportunity.  

We can see the beaver lodge in the middle of the marsh. The other couple arrive and they point out some trees that the beavers have recently eaten bits of - my gosh they don't half tackle some large trees (it's the middle on - chewed on both sides).  

As the light fades we actually see a moving 'V' in the water - it's a beaver!  

Altogether we spot about four of them - magical. A good end to the day.