Wednesday, 28 October 2015

Kohi Coastal Walk - Whakatane to Ohope

After another comfy night's sleep and delicious breakfast, this morning's adventure is to walk from Whakatane to Ohope along the coastal path. We are following (in part) Toi's Footsteps. The latter is an eighteen kilometre circular historical Maori walk that is supposed to take seven hours. We are only doing one part of this obviously! 

Along the coastal path, part of it is impassable for one hour either side of high tide, so we check the tide tables. High tide is at seven o'clock. That should give us plenty of time. We also have to get back from Ohope. Bus? 

The lady in in the iSite (tourist office) yesterday told us it's best to take the car to Ohope, catch the bus back to Whakatane, and then walk the coastal path back to where you've parked the car. Timing will be crucial, there are not many buses. We would need to catch the 11:15am from Ohope. Discussing this over a cup of tea the previous evening, our host offered to follow us to Ohope then bring us back to the start of the walk in Whakatane. This is great, as it means we can start earlier with no danger of missing the correct tide times. Not only that, but we are dropped at the actual start of the walk rather than the at the bus stop. This avoids us having to walk up a steep hill. Ace!

A gentle downhill walk into the bush and...
A hint that dogs are not welcome here.
Gosh they don't like dogs do they? 
They really don't like dogs here
Oh my gosh, I don't want to die! 
 That's alright Eric, we'll take care of you (we don't like to tell him he's not a real dog so it's OK)

A waterfall, always a good start to a walk. Although they could have built they platform out a bit further so you could actually see the drop.

Of course the downhill bit doesn't last for long, and we start climbing. Taking a photo is always a good opportunity to stop and admire the view whilst regaining one's breath don't y' know. We are not too high as yet and have a glimpse of Whakatane below us.  With Whale Island just offshore.

Then back towards Mount Edgecumbe. 

Walk a little further for a view out to White Island. Still smoking!
 
A little bit higher and we have good views back over Whakatane harbour, beach and town.

Eric is thinking these steps look rather steep. One set is almost a ladder!

Just when you think you may be close to the end of the up - it goes down again.

Then up and down several more times - wish we had some sticks.

Getting hot now. All this effort plus, even though we are in the trees there is virtually no wind on this side of the headland. Some clothing adjustment is required.  We are actually travelling along a flat bit when Eric shows us a way (up) to Toi's Pa. Toi was the Maori Iwi (tribe) leader in this area and he had a Pa on top of the headland. 

Eric reads the cultural bits - this was a very large Pa with many defences.

Exiting Toi's Pa there's a bit more up and down. Another photo rest required.

Contemplate flagging down the rescue helicopter...
but think better of it.

There's a great lookout point - but no railings...back away now!

Find some native orchids growing alongside the path, there were several plants like this. Don't know which species though.
Can just about make out our destination, Ohope Beach in the distance over the tops of the trees.

Of course, the inevitable steps. We are not sure how big these Kiwis are but most of the steps have a huge drop on them, requiring a sideways manoeuvre to descend safely. Otherwise a head of steam is gained from one step to the next and before you know it it'll be like the white rabbit falling down the rabbit hole.

Can now not only see final destination, but also more importantly, our lunch venue (the first beach you can see above the trees).
As you can see, this means going down
Ah, There's another hidden beach before lunch
There's a bird in this tree somewhere but do you think I can see it, no.
Getting lower and looking back along the coast below the way we came
We don't actually have to go ALL the way down to the hidden beach, only part way before ascending again.

There are both Grey-faced Petrels and Blue Penguins that nest on this bit of coast. We can't see the birds because it's daytime, but these are some of their burrows alongside the path.
Eric informs us our lunch destination is below - no wonder he has such a big smile on his face.
We are at sea level - nice kelp bed.
Where we came from
The lunch destination and the place that gets cut off at high tide, Otarawairere Bay - a very good place for birds.

We sit and have our picnic lunch prepared by our B&B host. Asparagus rolled in a slice of thin bread. Club sandwiches. Nuts, seeds and dried fruit. Kiwi fruit, apples and two gorgeous blueberry muffins.
All washed down with some good old plain Adam's Ale. Boy, we needed that.

There are lots of jellyfish on the beach. Not sure if they are all the same species, or different ones.

And some sea urchin remains - they are collected and eaten by the Maori as a great delicacy (but obviously not the spiny parts!)

Now that's a Cabbage Tree and a half.
The beach is composed almost entirely of shell fragments.

There are also lots of birds nesting, either on the cliffs above the beach, or in the trees.

Spot the gull.
A Black-backed Gull, with an amazing succulent plant in the foreground. Roseroot?
Parent Pied Shag and...
baby Pied Shag
A very balletic Shag.
Plus a Reef Heron.

Eric finds his very own rock arch.  Is there anyone down there?

As we make our way towards the next section of the walk there are some other great rock formations.
Angry monkey? Or your own interpretation of the rock features.

Of course, the inevitable steps back up. There is a notice at the bottom saying that this path is not to be used in wet conditions under any circumstances. So I'm not sure what we would have done if we'd walked this far, had lunch, tide came in a bit and then it rained.  Luckily for us none of that happened.
These are steep!
Looking back from whence we travelled.
 Higher and higher.



 Ah, a flat bit, great. Good job they have these railings hers, it's an almost vertical drop into the bush below on that side.
Interesting.
That's our final destination, and you know what that means..
Lots more steps down. I'm sure you can imagine how many there were to reach ground level, but we make it.

Now we know what the shells were.
There's a carved log on the beach. Was it carved in situ? Or a washed up carving? We decide on the former.
Nice car.

Return to B&B for a hot shower, rest and relaxation. 


Nibbles and drinks on the deck with our hosts, then a tour of the Kiwi fruit orchard and an interesting explanation of the intricacies of growing Kiwi Fruit.  Luckily the orchard was just behind the house so we didn't have too far to walk. I think we'll sleep well tonight.