Started the day with a breakfast of muesli, fruit and a stack of pancakes, being well regarded by our canine companion.
Eric drools over the pancakes (metaphorically)
We had to make a decision as to what adventures today would hold. Decided that the weather looked better on Monday for a flight to Cape Reinga, and discover that the three potential sail boats are not running today so we will leave that for later in the week. The weather is supposed to be taking a turn for the worse, so we will have to see.
Our back up plan was a visit to the historic houses in the Keri Keri area that we had missed on our previous visit. A bonus being they accept our National Trust cards so it's free entry, and we actually brought them this time!
First up is Te Waimate, where we follow in Darwin's footsteps, as he spent some time here over Christmas during one of his voyages.
The house was built by Maori and is made of Kauri planking and there was an English style farm started here.
The guide tells us some interesting stories, explaining some of the Maori culture as well. There is also some discussion on the rugby. The building is part of a missionary farm and one of the first games of cricket in New Zealand was played on this very lawn.
Eric admires the view from the verandah at Te Waimate, much as Darwin had.
In the garden Eric plays hide-and-seek with Darwin's dog, he thinks he's called The Beagle.
There is a clapperboard church next to the house and the fence surrounding the cemetery is covered with lichen.
Next it's away to the Kemp House and Stone Store at Keri Keri.
The buildings are in rather a lovely setting next to the river, but the Maori chief had warned the missionaries that if they built the house there then it was likely to flood.
The bit under Eric is freshwater whilst the bit where the boats are is part of the Keri Keri estuary inlet, and so saltwater.
The missionaries built the house by the river anyway, and of course it did flood. But has been restored by the equivalent of the National Trust in NZ, and they found out all sorts of interesting things when they did. We know this because to see Kemp House you have to go on a guided tour. We bought tickets at the Stone Store, which is set up like an old-fashioned grocery store, including the staff being dressed in clothes of the era. The one that is supposed to represent the old whaling captain is a right character - turns out he is doing the tours today as well. He is a New Zealander now but originally came from America. He was full of tales and humour, sometimes a little too much full-on! Quite a character. We finish the tour and manage to only buy a soft drink from the store (everything is very expensive).
The side of Kemp House
The Stone Store - they had to ship the glass out from England - it cost £660 in 1825.
Returning to the picnic site near the car we enjoy a late re-past and see a Barbary Dove (introduced to NZ from Africa).
We have been told that the river walk to Rainbow Falls is relatively easy and a very pleasant way to spend the afternoon. We almost get lost straight away, before meeting a walker coming the other way who tells us it's a one hour walk to the big falls (25m drop apparently). Even though it is on the outskirts of the town we are suddenly in native bush that could be miles from anywhere. We stroll pleasantly for an hour, with lots of flowers and lichens to see.
Clematis - but not sure if native.
The Spooky Old Tree?
(and his friend)?
The Kawa Kawa plant that our tea was made from last night - apparently you need to pick the ones with holes for the best taste (?!)
Eric marches out across the well-formed path.
The epiphytes on the trees are amazing.
We finally find a waterfall of small proportions that does not quite match the description of Rainbow Falls.
"Nice waterfall but that doesn't look 25m high"
Continuing on we find a sign that says they are half an hours walk away! I guess NZ tramping is a lot quicker than our snail's pace.
We meet a gentleman coming the other way - he has walked from Cape Reigna at the top of the North Island and is making his way down to Bluff, at the tip of the South Island. It's called the Te Araroa Trail, and it's going to him five months to walk it. He did the Appalachian Trail last year. He's about our age or even older - makes you feel inadequate or what?
There are lots of birds in the bush but none will stay still long enough to photograph. We see Kakereki (parakeets) , the ubiquitous Tui, fantails, NZ woodpigeon, plus some small birds that we do not recognise. Then we see this duck - about 25m up a tree!
We think it is a male Paradise Shell Duck.
We trek on (and on, and on) eventually reaching the falls.
"Now that's more like it"
No sun out today so no rainbow. Or at least not from this viewpoint. Find out later that you can drive and park a mere 10 minutes walk from three 'magnificent' viewing platforms above the falls! Oh well, the exercise will do us good. Now all we have to do is walk back. Sigh.
Tree ferns are lush.
On returning to the B&B we find that the scenic flight and drive to Cape Reigna we booked at breakfast is now leaving earlier tomorrow than we anticipated. We have to catch the seven am ferry from Russell to Pahia - that's a fifteen minute walk from the house, and we need breakfast too - a rather loud groan is heard...