Tuesday, 28 October 2014

Wanaka to the Glaciers

              Warning - Possible  Scenery Overload!

An early breakfast before the drive today,  as we had a helicopter ready and waiting for us at the other end.  Another Pass to negotiate today plus a number of lakeshores.  A passing shot of Lake Hawea before crossing a mountain pass through Mount Aspiring National Park (where the road was going to be closed after 6pm -there is no alternative route!) and stopping to take a shot looking back down Lake Wanaka. 



As we travel along the lake the road disappears under a recent rockfall, which we assume was the reason for the early road closure notice, perhaps they needed time to clear up the debris. 

Our next stop was at a place called Fantail Falls (do I hear the groans of 'oh no not another waterfall'). This one was singularly unimpressive.  I guess they haven't had much rain since we've been here so we should allow some leeway. 

You call that a waterfall? Pah. 

There was a short walk through the bush to reach it. The trees were very tall but thin.

The road opposite also had a rock wall covered with mosses that looked like a gorgeous jewel coloured carpet in the early morning light.

Well perhaps I exaggerate a little, but the colours were lovely.

We leave the Southern Alps heading for the coast over the Haast Pass. Yet another sign warning of major delays - are we going to get to our helicopter ride?  This time it is because of a land slip caused by boulders tumbling down a small waterfall (Dove Falls) and the associated remedial/future prevention work. There are men half way up the cliffs on ropes at the side of the falls putting a giant cage type thing in place (technical term). The workman on the side tells us there will be about a twenty minute delay, and that the netting is designed to catch a 19 ton boulder falling at sixty kilometres and hour.  I wouldn't want to be there when that happens, just in case they've only tested theoretically!


Lake Moeraki and Lake Paringa pass by and yet more waterfalls as we wend our way just behind the coast, plus another bit of missing road. 


The road reaches the coast at Haast and runs to Bruce Bay and there is photographic must do stop at Knights  Point. 
Eric had read the interpretation board and knows this is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. He is suitably impressed.

On the river bit of beach at Haast Beach people are camping - let's hope there's no flash floods. 

The Visitor Centre at Haast Village was very scenic.

At Knights Point there is a plaque that marks the official opening of the route linking the road to the north with the road south from the glaciers.  There is also a closed viewing platform as subsidence is causing cracks (possibly a prelim to that bit of coast falling off the edge). We might be giving the impression that this country is falling apart, which it actually is as a result of the two tectonic plates that are twisting and pulling the Islands apart. 

The cracks extended out beyond this bit of board to the car park.

Thunder Creek - our appointment with the helicopter meant no time to make it to the falls (whew). 
We also missed seeing the 'not to be missed'  Blue Pools (too long a walk) and stopping for 'essential to try' whitebait pattie (too full from breakfast and one vegetarian who doesn't eat fish).  The patties apparently contain whole whitebait.

This may be the main North-South Highway but all the bridges are one lane. 
Single file please. 

Turn inland and back to the mountains again. We are now on the other side of the Mount Cook (Aoraki) range. 
Another of those braided rivers.

A single lane suspension bridge that had a very dodgy roadway...

...and it was even worse when we entered Franz Josef over a single lane Bailey Bridge that looked like it had seen better days. We learnt later that it has had to be raised three times in the last forty years because of flooding from the glacial activity.  It was put in as a temporary structure and has stayed that way.

Our helicopter awaits and it's off to the top of Fox Glacier after an aerial scenic tour of the Franz Josef Glacier.  Bit of a tight squeeze in the helicopter - six people and the pilot in what felt like the size of an old Mini. Probably was a bit bigger than that in reality.  


The Franz Josef. Glacier as viewed from the (cramped) helicopter.
Pic of neve at the glacier from the helicopter - where the snow accumulates at the cirque or head of the glacier.
Mount Tasman (the second tallest peak in NZ) as viewed from standing on the glacier!


The helicopter may have been a bit claustrophobic but the views when standing on the glacier were stupendous.
Biggles and the whirlybird. Six people, a pilot AND a dog in there?
Don't have my helicopter pilot's licence with me mate, you'll have to fly it back.

You can just about make out the shadow of the helicopter on the ground.
View of the glacial river bed at the bottom of the glacier in Franz Josef as we come in to land.

Straight off the helicopter and into a minibus for a Glacier Valley Eco Walk with a local guide.  There are only the two of us - fantabidozy.  The walk is to the viewing area for the bottom of the glacier and the moraine.
There is a path that you have to follow, but as we were with a guide we were allowed to go off piste at certain points. The rocks are schist with bit of mica running through. They break part very easily and also contain some gold and garnets.
Eric studies the garnets embedded in the rock and thinks it will be a long time before the rock erodes from around them. No point in hanging about here then.  

The side of the valley have been sculpted by the glacier and water.

He takes us to the front of some dead ice.  This is bit of the glacier that was left behind when the rest of it retreated. It is covered in debris and this forms an insulating layer.

It's OK, we're allowed to be in here with a guide Eric.  Well they don't have any depictions of dogs in danger of being hit by falling rocks, so I'm alright.


We reach the viewing point.
As close as you can get.

A long day, but very rewarding.  Our beds await.