The following contains numerous references to birds.
(It also has pics of dolphins and seals so you may still be interested)
After waking early to see the sunrise on the mountain range inland (obviously!) from Kaikoura we were ready for a hearty breakfast. That makes it sound like we had to trek for miles rather than just open the curtains, but that's creative writing for you.
We went down for breakfast, a selection of French toast, scrambled egg, cheese, bacon, caramelised banana, maple syrup, sausage, fruit (kiwi, pineapple and melon) and toast. You'll probably guess which combination each of us had given our dietary differences of opinion.
So off to catch the boat, just 10 mins walk away. There were only going to be 4 on the boat for our Albatross Encounter, along with the skipper, Gary, who just happened to be the brother of our host at the B&B. That meant plenty of space, and the other couple were serious birders even to the point of twitching so we had plenty of advice to call upon.
Headed out into the bay
The following photos were taken in a fairly choppy sea with a 2-3m swell running so if you start to feel queasy the best bet is to sit down and read it with a cup of tea and some ginger biscuits. Old sea dogs like us didn't need any such artificial aids.
Whilst on the subject of seasickness it was interesting that everyone involved in the provision of tours asked us whether we had any history of being ill at sea and could we cope with a "bit of a swell". Even our hosts mentioned it, and they all recommended the pills made and supplied by the local pharmacist. Rumour has it that the pharmacist has recently built a very posh large mansion in town, possibly on the profits from his seasickness remedy, allegedly.
We'll start with a list that was actually compiled at the end, but you can see where we are going with this.
Albatross - Royal (2)
- Wandering (8)
Mollymawks - Black-browed (1)
- NZ White capped (12)
- Salvins (26)
Petrels - Giant Northern (22)
- Giant Southern (2)
- Westland (15)
- Cape (40)
Huttons Shearwater (3000+)
Pied Shag (6)
White Fronted Tern (40)
Southern Black Back Gull (60)
Red Billed Gull (40)
For the non-birders Mollymawks are a particular group of Albatross.
Now the photos, which are of variable quality as they were all taken with an iPhone. That's because those that we shot with the camera are still on it, as our means of downloading is still not working. Just think, we can bore you all with thousands more when we get back if we are not able to update the blog before that.
It should be noted that the Hutton's Shearwater is unique to this area, they only breed in the mountains of the Kaikoura Range.
Whilst moving between two birding spots we encountered a pod of Dusky Dolphins who were extremely friendly, playfully swimming and jumping around the boat. We were held spellbound by them for ages as they were clearly enjoying themselves.
Along the coast is Barney's Rock, which is the nesting site of White-fronted Terns, Southern Black Back, and Red Bill Gulls, although the latter are being displaced.
This is the work of NZ Fur Seals which both bask here and have discovered how tasty the gulls eggs are. Probably nibbling on a few chicks too. The seals also have the equivalent of a crèche on the rock, with some males attending to a group of pups while the mums are out gathering the "groceries".
Travelling back to Kaikoura on the boat, we stopped just outside the breaking surf along the beach. There were a pair of Hector's Dolphin.
These are the smallest of the dolphins, only found in New Zealand, and are thought to prefer the slightly murkier water closer to shore as they are safer from the Orca there. We heard over the radio that there were Orca sighted on the other side of the headland, along with some Humpbacks - so we hope they hang around for our whale watch trip tomorrow.
Back on dry land we return to the B&B for a cup of tea, change, and to plan our afternoon delights. We decide to 'do' The Peninsula Walk' - this apparently is a 'must do' whilst in Kaikoura. This will also help the environment and our purse strings by cutting down petrol costs! Start from the house travelling in a downward direction via steps and a gravel lane, hit the promenade and travel in a easterly direction for about 3.5km. This is great - the weather is sunny, the sea is on our left-hand side all the way, and most importantly, it's flat. We let a young German lad pass us on the boardwalk part of the prom as he is travelling faster than we are.
Eric wanted to watch some Mallard feeding but was bemused by the rather inelegant pose adopted.
Reach Kean Point and the seal colony. Sit and watch them for a while (pictures on camera not phone!) as we have seen that the next stage of the walk possibly involves an uphill climb to the top of the cliff. It looks as if you may be able to walk around the bottom of the cliffs but we are not sure if the tide is far enough out all the way, plus do not want to disturbe the seals or nesting birds.
At Kean Point the fault is still active and the land is rising at about 10mm a year.
Eric studies the newest bit of uplifted sea floor.
Well, it was hard work up the cliff path but the views are good.
There was a lighthouse at the top.
Well that's a poor apology for a lighthouse. Especially compared to the one at Farewell Spit.
The walk along the top of the cliff is along a very well manicured grass path, with multiple stopping points and interpretive panels. We reach a viewing platform next to a steep set of steps leading to the beach, and find the young German lad sitting on the seat at the top. He asks us how we got there - I think he'd only just arrived and wondered how we'd managed to catch up with him. Of course he'd taken the beach route, which is longer and had a very steep climb to were we meet him now. He doesn't have a map and asks where the onward path goes - discussion ensues on possible routes and then we leave, carrying on in the direction of Whalers Bay and then South Bay.
The area is limestone and some of the rock formations are really interesting as we travel along above the various bays.
Pass some lush pasture with a very nosey cow in it.
The path now turns inland to cross behind a small headland hill through some more fields.
We have yet to research if NZ has a history as a penal colony similar to Australia as they seem to want to imprison unruly pedestrians (or is it possibly just to protect the information panel from the cows).
The young German lad catches us up again, he must have decided to do the full peninsula walk. We let him pass once again.
Finally come to South Bay and a view across to the village there. The only way is down now. The path is made-up but there is steep drop off on the left-hand side - it's very safe but sometimes doesn't feel that way. We see the German lad striding across the boardwalk at the bottom of the hill.
There is a park at the bottom.
Eric braved the fierceness of the Maori warrior to have his photo taken with the canoe.
This gets us into South Bay village itself and all we have to do now is negotiate our way back to Kaikoura across the peninsula. Decide on the shortest route to the South Bay Track, the signpost says it will take another 45mins.
The young German lad appears from another road and is walking in front of us on the other side of the road. But wait - what's this - a Landcruiser towing a boat pulls up beside him and appears to offer him a lift - we here the thud of the door as he gets in to be driven back to Kaikoura. What a wuss, he didn't complete the whole walk! Why didn't that man offer us a lift as well -sigh.
The track is about 8 lamposts further on ( technical topographical information provided by a friendly Kiwi lady who spots us poring over our not to scale map) and winds it's way up through a woodland emerging on a plateau at the top. More pasture, and this time a rather pretty bull who looked like he'd had a bit much cream with his grass and was still to wipe his face. Reminded us of our daughter's ice-cream face at Caswell Bay when she was about 2.
The South Bay Track turns into Tom's Track (dedicated to a man who drowned whilst trying to save a whale) and descends the other side of the peninsular. At one point it crosses a rickety bridge.
No evidence of trolls but a rather disconcerting sign.
As it ends up back at sea level we decide to eat before returning up another hill to our accomodation rather than having to do this journey twice. Steak today for some of us or carrot and coriander soup.