Friday, 30 October 2015

Gisborne and Tatapouri

Awoke to bright sunshine. 

The first view from the bedroom window shows this ship just leaving Gisborne Harbour.  Marine Traffic app. informs us that the ship is bound for Incheon in South Korea. So at least we know the destination of all those logs that we saw being hauled along the road yesterday.

The usual homemade muesli, bucket loads of fresh fruit and yogurt for starters.  There was a choice of fresh fruit juice this morning, one of the choices was fresh apple and feijoa. It looked rather turgid and an unappealing greeny brown colour! But it just had to be tried, and turned out to be really scrummy, so much so that another large glass was imbibed. This is followed by Glenn's big breakfast, venison sausages and all the other works. The mushrooms were small and particularly delicious. The vegetarian alternative is strawberry pancakes with bananas, homemade Manuka honey and maple syrup.  It turns out that one half of our hosts (that should read one of our hosts) is (currently) a commercial bee-keeper and they make Manuka honey to grade 10.  We discuss our plans for the day - a trip around the harbour in an old fishing boat and a walk around the town's historical sites and along the river to the beach.  Our host checks, and the harbour cruise is not running at the moment, only on Sunday.  A trip to feed the wild Stingrays is recommended, down the coast at Tatapouri.  Not too sure about this but are assured it's not a big commercial operation and is as much to do with a reef ecology tour as anything. You don't need a snorkel, just chest waders, which they provide. We arrange to go at about one o'clock and so are able to fit in the walks beforehand.

We start outside the iSite office.  Take a quick check of where we are exactly.

There is a big totem pole that confuses Eric. Am I back in Canada again? 
It was donated to the town by the Canadians. 

Adjacent to this was Alfred Cox's Park, running alongside one of the three rivers that join in Gisborne. There are large Palm trees beside the river that look rather picturesque.

Eric insists on having his photo taken by one of them.

We wander further into the park but the scene on the other side looks rather industrial and anyway it's not on the Historical Tour leaflet we are following (being real tourists carrying a map with landmarks highlighted on it).

Returning to the iSite we follow the map past where Dame Kiri Tekanawa had her Gisborne home, past the town clock; 

a stranded tall ship in the middle of the high street; 

the old post office clock; an interesting street statue in the histotic Peel Street quarter;

Eric enjoying the story being read by the old gentleman on the bench.

and on to the river. 

There is a maritime museum on the other side of the river that is made out of the bridge and deck of The Star of Canada, which was wrecked on Kaiti reef in 1912.

Crossing the river we visit the rose garden, Eric nips over to smell them, can you spot him?   

There is also a memorial here to one of the key founders of the Women's Movement in NZ, Margaret Sievwright, with her name carved in stone, but mis-spelt.  

Eric spots another memorial statue he'd rather like to imitate.

Wandering on past the war memorial we are once again alongside a river, but a different one. The three meet near this point before disgorging into the harbour and out to sea.  There is a marina, 

but also a working dock where they are loading more of those logs onto a ship. 

There are hundreds of logs piled on the quayside. 

Our host tells us later that the lorry drivers who collect the logs from the forestry blocks and deliver them to the quay have to do this three times a day (about 150km each way) just to pay off the loan for their lorries.  This could be why they were in such a hurry before. Apparently they start at one in the morning and finish about five in the evening, go to bed, and then wake up to start all over again.

Past a statue illustrating the prow of a Maori waka or canoe 

and around to the beach promenade.  They are busy cleaning the beach. Our host had told us yesterday evening that after the last severe storm there was virtually no sand to be seen on the beach, it was covered with so many logs.  Looking at the clear up operation we can well believe that.

On down to the waterfront to return to the car we pass some interesting murals.

Watch out Eric, that's and electricity sub-station and there are live wires under where you are sitting.

Then a statue of Cap'n Cook, who we may have mentioned previously. 

Then there is one of Nicholas Young. He was the first person to spot New Zealand because he was the 14 year old cabin boy and had the dubious pleasure of being stationed at the top of the ship's mast. 

Eric thinks it must be a pretty large tent that needs a tent peg this big!

Along the waterfront we manage to get a good picture of White-faced Heron having a mid-morning snack.

Returning to the iSite we pass this rather weird boat sculpture.

Time to find the stingrays.
The tour place is about ten minutes along the road. We are greeted by Alex who explains what the reef ecology tour entails. 

Views of the reef area, the first is looking towards where the Marine Reserve is; the second looking the other way towards Tatapouri Head.


Donning chest waders, and holding a bamboo stick we make our way out to where they have a marker float. Waders are size 10 and size 9.  Would be better if one pair was a bit smaller - I'll leave to your imagination the worries entailed with combination of size 5 feet in size 9 waders, water and rocks. 

But remarkably make it out to buoy without getting wet.

Alex has a bucket full of bait and the rays are soon swimming around our feet. Swimming seems too ugly a word for the way these creatures glide seemingly effortlessly.  There are two species here, Eagle rays and Short-tailed Rays, and they are easily distinguished on the basis of size, wing shape, number of tail barbs (1 and 3 respectively) and swimming style. 

The Eagle Ray. 

Angular wings and swims with an elegant flapping motion of the wings. 



The Short-tailed Ray. 

Much larger and as they move through the water the wings seems to ripple along its outer edge providing the propulsion. They also proved harder to get many good pictures. 

We spend an hour and half just watching them approach and investigate us. Alex suggests that we can hand feed them, which one of us does somewhat reluctantly as we are more than happy to just watch and not interfere with them.  It has to be said that the feeding was also a remarkable experience. By simply holding a piece of bait on the sea bed the ray glides across your hand and seems to "Hoover" the bait of your hand with almost no contact. We are reassured by the fact we are told they have no teeth. 

There were also a large number of other fish of various sizes taking advantage of the bait being used. 

All too soon it is time to make our way back to the shore. On the way we keep our eyes peeled for anything else that may be lurking in the shallows, and soon spot a number of photogenic crayfish. 

Speaking with the owners of the establishment we discover that they have a Welsh heritage. Dean's parents still live in the Rhondda valley and have a caravan in Porthcawl. The last time he and his wife visited Wales, about 2 years ago, they spent some time in Porthcawl.  His father is Maori and was a boxer, his mother Welsh. 

Next its back to the B&B to have a quick cuppa, I hadn't noticed their weather vane before - I'd like one like this

and also since it's so warm, a quick dip in the pool.
After a relax we decide to visit the lookout on Kaiti hill, which sits above the point where Cook first set foot on NZ. 

It had fantastic views over Gisborne

And a good plaque describing what Eric can see


 It also has a statute of the Captain

though the plaque beneath explains that there is some controversy over the statue as 

a) it shows him in a French Naval Officers uniform, and 
b) reputedly doesn't look like him! 

So who could it really be?

On Kaiti Hill there is also a plaque commemorating a Pohutakawa tree planted by Princess Diana in 1983.

As well as the Cook Planetarium, which the Queen has visited but that we are not able to as it's only open on Tuesday evenings.

So it's off to The Wharf restaurant for a steak and eggs Florentine.  Outside in the harbour is the MV Takitimu, the boat we had hoped to go out on this morning.

There's also a lovely Morris pick-up - well would be a cheaper option than a yacht or helicopter (the latest fancies).

On the way back we see a somewhat confusing advert on the rear of a lorry, is this advert for or against drinking a particular drink.

The rain held off long enough to have tea outside our room, but once it started (including gale force winds, thunder and lightening) it seemed to rain most of the night and was still pouring down when we awoke. 

The biscuits had to be locked in the safe to protect them from nighttime raiders

Wednesday, 28 October 2015

Drive to Gisborne - around the Cape

Up early as we have a long drive ahead of us , breakfast at 7:30. Pick up our pre-prepared picnic lunch from B&B hosts , pay the bill and away to go. We avoid Whakatane town this morning, taking the main highway to Opotiki. Weather is cloudy and raining a bit.

We are bemused by what starts here. What DOES start here? 

At Taneatua we have a worrying moment as we cross a bridge...
are those railway lines?

Pass the other parts of Ohiwa harbour. The tide is full in with no mud for the birds. The Bittern and Crake are not around this morning either. Not enough time to sit around for a couple of hours to see if the shy Crake can be spotted.  The Ohiwa harbour area is huge, so we travel on.

Eric is glad he's in the car, it doesn't look too pleasant out there.

Two Maori carved posts mark the entrance to the Opotiki stretch. We have been told to make sure we fill up the petrol tank and have food with us, as apparently there are very few facilities in this remote area of NZ. 

We have the food and now just need the fuel. Look for a particular chain of fuel as have 4c off per litre voucher - note to self - must remember to read vouchers carefully - only valid in Whitianga, although the man did try to run it through!

There are two recommendations for cafés along the route, the first (a Macademia Nut farm) to be found after what is purported to be the most scenic bit of the next four hundred kilometres. 

Fully tanked up we start the rite of passage road trip for most New Zealanders, a unique coastal driving experience (allegedly).  We are still too early for the Pohutukawas to be in full bloom though. 

The road winds and turns with a surprising amount of up and down. Why are we surprised?

The road sign tells us there is Pig Dog Training School here. Pig Dog??
We've heard of Babe the Sheep Pig but not of Pig Dogs. Wonder what they look like. 
A quick internet search later locates

"Get your dog trained by an expert and start hunting for pigs successfully. ... Training dogs sent in from south island ... NZ Pig Dog Hunting and Training School."

Next sign we pass says all sections of the road are open, which is good news!
We ponder what would close the road.

We pass into the tribal lands of the Maori people, the local Iwi tribe own much of Cape Runaway area.  

Haere Mai to you too.

As we travel along, it looks a little like Tythegston Estate in terms of the number of 'private', 'keep off' and 'beach access with permit only' signs. We obviously have not hit the very remote bits yet either, as there are houses spaced at regular (fairly large) intervals.

A little further and there is a huge land slip over one side of road, which is obviously closed. It says 'give way' but the road bends around a corner and we are not able to see if anything is coming. We cross onto the wrong side of the road and hope for the best. There have been quite a few big forestry lorries loaded with logs passing us, so let's hope we don't meet one of those coming the other way.  Phew, all good... and now we know why the road may be closed. It's obviously happened before, just around the bend, the whole side of the hill has been terraced and supported with what look like gabions. That must have been a massive slippage.

The beaches here are far more rugged, not as picturesque and look like they bear the brunt of storms. 

There is an enormous amount of driftwood on the beach, well logs rather than small stuff. 

Cor, look at all that...I could make a fortune selling driftwood sculptures.

If you had a wood burning stove you wouldn't be short of fuel here!

It was raining and dull when we left, but the sun is out now. The clouds are still sitting on the mountains though.

We pass the historic Anglican Church, sitting alone on a small peninsula.

Not another beach! Well at least I get to have a walk.

Later that same day, we pass the Macademia Nut farm cafe - but it is closed.

Arrive at Hick's Bay. 
Civilisation? Well there is a fairly large motel here.

A road from here leads to the most easterly lighthouse in the world, worth a trip? Probably, but it's 23 km of gravel road so have to give it a miss (hire car rules rule).

The road now turns and heads back down the other side of the Cape. 

The Eastern Cape Manuka Honey cafe is actually open, but the urge for a cake has worn off by now (a tall story I know, but actually the truth).

We had read that this section of the route was away from the coast and very much travelling through farmland, so we were expecting the middle part of the drive to be a bit boring.  Well, it was farmland, but not rolling plains, more like mid Wales with lots of lumps bumps, hills and mountains. So quite interesting really. One of the mountains, Hikurangi  is 1754m high (much bigger than anything we have in the UK). It is a sacred place in Maori legend, as it is where the North Island was snagged by Maui while fishing and pulled up out of the sea.  

There is quite a lot of forestry here, with some native bush.  There are more logging trucks - one of whom is behind us on a downhill straight stretch of the road - it feels a bit like Deliverance as it is catching us up. The speed limit is 100kph, and he's doing it.  We pull over at a suitable place to let him pass.  As we continue on we round a bend, there's a steep hill, and the lorry is only halfway up it! Although there is a passing lane we stay behind him as we know there will be another downhill stretch once over the top and we don't want him looming in the rear view mirror again - the sound of banjos was only just dying away from the previous encounter.

The road now drops down to the sea at Tokomoro, an interesting place historically and great stop for our pre-prepared picnic lunch.  

The whole town/village has an air of disrepair. A bit like a ghost town from a Western, but not quite. More like Builth Wells waiting for the Royal Welsh to start.  Perhaps the locals would agree as we see this advert for holiday accommodation

A small dog from the gallery by the wharf temporarily adopts us - hoping for some tit bits of our luncheon - he doesn't know any better.

The wharf is temporarily closed as it's unsafe. It is still an interesting structure.  

Eric admires the historic wharf.
A pleasant enough view for our lunch stop though.
There is also an old wharf building.
The faded sign on the door says "if you wish to photograph this historic building, please make a donation". There's a tiny slot in the door, but we have no change (honest). 

Fully refuelled we continue on to Anaura Bay, where Captain Cook first came ashore in 1769. Or at least we would have visited this historic beach if we hadn't missed the turn off and only realised as we approached Tolaga Bay.  


Lots more driftwood on the beach here too.

Contemplate returning but then decide that we will just visit Tolaga, which boasts the longest wharf in the Southern Hemisphere. 

Close up of the wharf entrance 

It is not closed for renovation, they already did that fairly recently, so we are able to walk along it.  

Eric is looking forward to stretching his legs. 

The sun is shining through the clouds but the wind has picked up.  

A wierd Panorama from the middle if the wharf - it's not bent - just that much either side of where the photo was taken from and not really a good place to take a panoramic shot from. It's soooooo long!

Even the cliff face is shocked at the length of it. Well, I thought I could see a face open mouthed in awe there anyway!

Can't come all this way and not walk the full 660m now can you!  

Stopped at a couple of viewpoints and beaches on the last part of the journey into Gisborne, including a marine reserve area where we see some NZ Dotterel again and a dead cow.  There are some good surf beaches on the final stretch but it's fairly small and there's no-one in the water (and only one person on the beach with their dog).

We have a quick look around the metropolis of Gisborne before heading to the accommodation, which is on a ridge outside town.  Views are pretty good, 

and some comfy chairs plus sun to enjoy them in.  

A good book and a sit outside. It was even a reasonable sunset.

How relaxing.