To New Plymouth Before Prince Charles Gets There

Having copied our holiday plans by turning up in Wellington, we hear now that Prince Charles and Camilla are going to follow us up to New Plymouth. They are being good enough to wait until the day after we leave so we can have the place to ourselves for a day or two. 

No need to rush this morning, but we do decide to have breakfast a little earlier as it is a pretty long drive.  The weather is looking very good as we prepare to leave and we almost wish we had another day here so close to the beach.

We spend the first couple of minutes of the drive trying to decide whether we take the inland route or the Surf Highway coast route to New Plymouth. One guidebook says the coast is a must, with views of beaches for most of the drive, whilst a second (the Lonely Planet) informs us that the road stays well inland from the coast with beach views mostly only occurring if you take any of the numerous side roads to the beaches. The shorter road is across farmland but, along with the longer drive, has almost continuous views of Mt Taranaki. It's about 90km to Hawera when we have to make the final decision, so we a leave it for now and concentrate on what's on offer before then. 

Our first stop is at Paipatonga Scenic Reserve with a 10 minute walk through the bush to a lookout 

There is a dune lake on the Horowhenua coastal plain, and apparently the reserve is a rare example of a transition from coastal wetland to dry terrace forest (although not sure exactly what the latter is). There are supposedly wetland birds and waterfowl as well as forest species.  The site is also important historically, the local Maori people extended their village in the 1820s by building one of the two islands that now sits in the middle of the lake.

The route to the lookout takes us across a rather good boardwalk where we hear lots of birds but have great difficulty spotting any of them, except the Fantail.  One sounded like it might be a Shining Cuckoo, but absolutely no sightings! 

Eric enjoys sitting in the dappled sunshine on the boardwalk.

There were wet bits and sedges throughout the undergrowth.

Huh, A bit more between us and the lake than there is at Kenfig, and we don't have a telescope.

Through the binoculars we could see some Canada Geese and Shoveler plus some other unidentifiable ducks (very exciting I'm sure we hear you say).

On returning to the car we disturb a parrot type bird, which we currently think may be the Kakariki. we had seen it fleetingly on pulling into the car park, but not a good enough view to be sure. 

From here we drive on to Manuwhatu Estuary Reserve at Foxton Beach.  This is a Ramsar site, a wetland of International importance. On the way we spot this windmill in Foxton town, which did look a little out of place. there seems to be a thriving Dutch community here.

On reaching Foxton Beach we park the car and take a walk.

Eric tells us we need to turn around and walk the other way.

Along the estuary it's a wide salt marsh and mud flat, with sedge beds, so obviously an ideal spot for birdwatching. 

Some Pukeko.

Eric examines the board for what we might see further afield if we had a telescope!

There are plenty of birds...but it is low tide and they are all pretty distant specks. 

We can see some Bar-tailed Godwit, and possibly some Lesser Knot. 

We also get some good views of Spoonbill again. 

Some more landscape shots across the Reserve. There are people whitebaiting at the estuary mouth.

Across the other side of the estuary (frustratingly) is what is termed Fernbird Flats - no time to check this area though.

A picked clean fish, the Gulls seem to be the main culprits.

Perhaps, finally, a reasonable shot of an Australisian Harrier overhead.

We don't have the luxury of being able to wait for the tide to come in so that we have a better view. Consequently we head north again. 

It's decision time at Hawera - we take the inland route thinking that if we get to the B&B with time to spare we can investigate New Plymouth and take a drive back down the "Surf Highway" as it doesn't get dark until about 9pm, and with such good weather there may be a good sunset on this west coast.

We drive through a town called 'Bulls', 

Apparently good for antiques. Their welcoming sign is a pun, as are several other signs in the town.

Just in case you can't see, the sign reads 

'Herd of Bulls? A Town Like No Udder' 

Even though this is a primary route across the country it is like driving used to be in the sixties, with very little traffic, so you can just motor along at the speed limit which seems to be well adhered to by the locals. 

We pass through Stafford, which has a Glockenspiel clock that plays out a scene from Romeo and Juliet a few times a day.

Not a lot else to be said about the actual route apart from the visually stunning view of what we intially take to be Mt Taranaki (it proves on investigation to be Mt Ruapehu) 

then by distant views of the even more spectacular Mt Egmont (the English colonial name for Taranaki)

That looks like one of those school chemistry lesson volcanoes.

We can't stop taking photos of the mountain as we drive around, getting different aspects at each turn.

Not so distant

From the side

Closer as we pass 

As we near New Plymouth the terrain changes from relativity flat plain to a much hillier landscape and we wonder what sort of views we will get from the B&B. Shouldn't have worried, when we arrive the view from the drive is...the other side of Mt Taranaki.

Is that the magic mountain? 

...with the same view from one bedroom window

From the other it's the coast - it is there, honest!

so the person in charge of the tour arrangements has come up trumps again. 

Front of house - it was moved to this site from somewhere else - in three sections, and completely renovated in the original style (externally and internally)

To add to this the garden at the place is having an open day. It's equivalent to the RHS open garden scheme in the UK. On arrival we have tea and scones on the rear terrace chatting with people who have attended the open day. There's also a blind Golden Lab called Daisy

It's a beautiful garden. 

A Dogwood tree done in layers - they call it the wedding cake tree.

After relaxing for a while we set off into NP to check out a restaurant we have been recommended for tomorrow nights meal, and to make a booking, which is deemed essential. It looks good with views out over the bay. 

Another interesting tower clock is seen.

Eric mans the guns (one of his favourite occupations you may have noticed)

Having booked the restaurant we head on down the coast to the Cape lighthouse. Stopping to ensure the back door of the car was closed, a very nosey calf came to have a look at what we were up to.

An eventful drive as we turn off the main highway towards the coast on a road signposted Historic Cape Lighthouse. Arrive at what looks to be the centre of the universe. cars parked everywhere and people milling about, some making for what appears to be a cafe/restaurant on the first floor of the lighthouse building. 

This is odd as the picture of the lighthouse we were making for looked much more isolated. Turns out that this is actually the Historic Cape Lighthouse (1864), with the Surf Life Saving Club and Boat Club attached. It was decommissioned in 2006. They must be having an event of some sort. 

Although it's a splendid lighthouse it's not the one we wanted to find.

There also don't appear to be any boats in sight on the slipway of the Boat Club.

We consult the map and, surprise suprise, our lighthouse is about 10km further down the coast, so off we go again. This time there is no one there but us and we have a quick snack on crackers and kiwi fruit we find in the boot while we wait the 20 minutes or so before sunset. We are joined by another lady wanting to take photos too.  There are two views to photograph. The first is of the lighthouse with Mt Taranaki in the background, 

The small hills with boulders embedded were created by 'lahars' flowing from Mt. Taranaki during eruptions.

whilst the second is of the waves and the sea, 

and eventually the sunset. 

We wait a while after the sun goes down, hoping it will turn the top of the snow capped mountain pink, but this doesn't quite happen. 

Shows the lighthouse in a good light but...

...the mountain only takes on a violet hue

It's time for bed when we return so no time for catching up with blogging. 

Wellington to Waikanae

A 9 o'clock breakfast again this morning as we do not have far to go today - Waikanae via the classic car museum at Paraparaumu. 

Fruit again, including the infamous Tamarillo ( who sung that song, oh no, not quite the right title).  

The aforementioned Tamarillo.

All packed and ready to go, we take a last trip around the waterfront as we say goodbye to Windy Wellie, rain has stopped and sky is brightening, looks good for the journey.  Around the corner we pass the art gallery and shop, consider stopping for a gander, but doesn't open until 11 and since it's only just gone 10 we give it a miss.  Some derelict piers provide a good photo opp. though. 

As we hit the coast above Poriru a raft of birds is seen in the sea, but nowhere to stop and too far away to ID, although they looked like some kind of Petrel. We follow them down the coast for a while.

We have plenty of time, so call in to see what the metropolis of Paraparaumu has to offer on our way to the car museum. Sun is out and shining brightly.

Sign looks familiar, but it's a different place (just).

And the beach - well I guess they all look the same!

The car park at Southwards the Classic car museum is almost empty - hope it's open. It is. 

 Cor blimey, that's a lot of old cars (and other things!).  

The cars are in a very large hanger, 

and there's a downstairs too.  

Plus a 'corridor' of motorbikes/bicycles upstairs, 

and several alcoves with a variety of 'collectibles' including quite a few cabinets full of different novelty salt and pepper shakers (this has shades of the Bakelite Museum in Willenden). 

A number of hours are spent wandering around the display cars.  Some particular ones of note or peculiarity perhaps 

An MG that is older than ours

A car with handmade wicker bits on it

What?  they went round the world in that?

A Mumbai bus - do they really need that many mirrors? 

A row of old fire appliances

Harley Davidson motorbikes have changed a bit since this one

There's an old Gypsy Moth plane too. 

Managed to escape the cars by mid afternoon and find our way to B&B on the beachfront at Waikanae.  Good views from the balcony, bedroom and lounge area. 

Eric soaks up the rays (with Factor50 on of course)

Filled up with tea, drop scones and chocolate cake we venture out the 50yds to walk along the beach to the estuary.  See if we can spot any of the birds we missed on our tour last Monday. 

There are large flocks of mixed birds in the sea, with terns ( both white- fronted and Caspian) diving for fish, gulls, two different types of Shearwater (Sooty and Fluttering) we think, Black-backed Gulls, Red-billed Gulls, Shag and potentially and Arctic Skua. A good start.  It's Whitebait season and there must be shoal of those or some other fish out there as the birds are in a feeding frenzy. 

Kapiti Island is in the background, a very important site for birds in NZ.

We catch up with those feisty Oystercatchers further along the beach, so give them a wide berth, 

and the White-fronted Terns on the edge of the estuary. They are nesting and we do not want to disturb (or be dive-bombed!).   

There is plenty of driftwood on the beach, and here people have taken to making 'artworks' with some of the pieces.

The smaller driftwood here forms it's own little barrier to temporarily hold the tide back, until it is breached in some places. 

Also quite a lot of shells on the beach - we think this is a new one for us.

Stroll back to accommodation, miss the sunset as

we are out for dinner just a little further along the road. Two starter meals with sides, just to leave room for the pudding - divine!

Restaurant is busy and late when we return, and so to bed.

Wet & Windy Welli.

Well last nights rain was still with us when we awoke this morning. And Wellington is certainly living up to its nickname of the Windy City. 

We ponder what to do for the day given the weather forecast looks pretty grim for the rest of the day too. 

All that has to wait until we have had breakfast, which we meant to photograph yesterday, but in our enthusiasm we had tucked in before taking the picture. We requested a repeat this morning (not just because we needed to take the picture though).

This may explain why!

One came with bacon, the other was with added fruit. 

So back to today's venture - we had been told by a number of people that Weta Cave was an essential stop on any Wellington itinerary. It is a film studio specialising in special effects and responsibile for an number of Sci-fi and adventure films including Avatar, Lord of the Rings, Godzilla and many more. 

It has a lot of merchandising for the Lord of the Rings films and does tours of the studio explaining their work. Some essential items to buy, we are told, include Hobbit feet and ears - who can resist that eh! Especially at 54NZD for a pair of ears (that's about £25).

The studio is just a short walk away, there is a bijou problem in that the walk is over what seems like a mountain. 

After finishing of the pancakes, and the fruit, and the toast, and the croissants, and several cups of tea we don the weatherproof gear and set out for the studios, having been provided with an idiot proof map by our host. (you guessed it- nothing is foolproof for a suitably qualified fool).

We have to start off by using one of the tsunami escape routes up the side of the hill/cliff/mountain. 

Eric starts off on the zigzag path. 

And keeps zigzagging 

After innumerable zigs and an equal number of zags we reach this point - Eric thinks there won't be room for many people at the Tsunami Safe Location - it's at the junction of one of the zigzags 

We get to the top of this pathway 

and take what turns out to be a number of wrong turns by not following the map as well as we should, eventually having to ask a local builder, who confirms what we already know - we are lost. 

Following his directions and retracing our steps we get back on track and easily spot our error. In our defence the public path clearly looks like it is down someone's driveway, which it is, only to subtly turn behind a hedge. So it will be obvious when we make the return trip. 

On the way down the hill we spot this...

Not sure which is Worser, the bay or the school or their grammar.

We hadn't booked a tour as we weren't too bothered given we are not great Sci-fi fans, but thought if there was space available we may well do it, we just wanted a peak at the Hobbit ears obviously. 

The reticence was coupled with the fact that we knew that two cruise liners had docked in Wellington and, as they are only there a day, the passengers may well fill up such venues. 

We have to start off by saying the tour was absolutely brilliant. 

After a short film on the initial founding and aims of the firm we are guided around part of the workshop and given detail of how the props are made and some of the intricacies of the work that goes into creating the effects. There are many to see, though they are very tight on security with no pictures allowed, and where some items are being made, they ensure that only part of the process is seen. This means no one could "spill the beans " on any upcoming project. 

We are able to take some pictures around the museum and shop. 

Eric confers with Gollum as to where he thinks the Ring may be

Has a quick chat with one of the trolls

Lunchtime now and there is a handy cafe that we were recommended just a block away en-route back to the B&B. 

We pass more Tsunami Safe Zone signage.  Is one safe on one side of the line and not the other?

After the large breakfast we limit lunch to a healthy snack - tea plus crepes and fruit for one and a coconut and lemon cake for the other. We are on holiday not in a health spa, so that counts as healthy. 

Consulting the map for the return leg we see the path we missed on the way and set off up the hill. Lucky we are not on an orienteering challenge as this time we take the wrong option on the way back, and after making our way down a suitable looking path that looked like it was signposted 'Pedestrian Access to Karaka Road' find ourselves in someone's back garden.  Back we go (up lots of steps) and try again, this time successfully. You really have to see the way the houses are piled on top of each other along the hillside here to appreciate how easy these mistakes were to make. 

The day is still best described by the blog title so we consider what the afternoon should be filled with. We haven't been to the cinema here this time round so make that the order of the day. Toni Collette and Drew Barrymore in "Miss You Already". The creative arts of Weta Studio not needed for this one, not a single battle scene.  We are the only ones watching the film. Seats are comfy and film enjoyable, who can ask for more.

Visit art gallery shop on way back to car, and manage not to make any purchases, even though there are zillions of gorgeous things in the shop. Picnic on the waterfront and return to the B&B, or 'hosted accommodation' as it may be alternatively called. 

Whilst sat in our lounge writing this entry we spy one of the cruise ships leaving Wellington for Akaroa on the South Island. 

Packing, cups of tea, chat with host and bed.