Sunday - Breakfast Banquet in Levis and a Day in Quebec City

An amazing start to the day with a breakfast banquet fit for a king. The table was loaded with all sorts of food, and we'll start with an apology as the only way to do justice to this is via a list (we thought it would have been rather embarrassing to take photos of the spread with the other guests at the table) 

We started with super fresh mixed fruit juice; then 

Individual raspberry and hazelnut crumble;

Blueberry muffins;

Slices of Beef, ham, ham and pork pate with onion and allspice in a breadcrumb coating;

Quail eggs (gosh they're small and salty);

Cheesy breadsticks with paprika;

Fresh fruit - pineapple, raspberries, strawberries, melon, grapes;

Cheese;

Pork pate;

Grapefruit cheesecake ( amazing!!)

Then, Carole (our host), brought out the cooked part ......

Bagel topped with leeks, onions, cheese, herbs - absolutely delicious - this part of the menu was prepared especially for me because Carole knew I was a vegetarian. 

This was all accompanied by bread/toast with a choice of apple jelly or blueberry and Jack Daniels jam! And as much coffee as we wanted (we've given up on the tea which comes in all varieties except tea flavour - and the water is never hot enough to make a tidy cuppa). That much coffee kept us buzzing all day. Not only that but Carole gave us a doggie bag of some of the remaining food to eat eat while we were out. 

We justified the one and a quarter hours spent at breakfast by walking 3.5km along the St Lawrence Seaway shoreline to the Ferry across to old Quebec City. There's a paved cycle and pedestrian path, and you hardly notice that your going downhill all the way, until your coming back that is. 

      You can just about see the steady incline

Just after getting off the ferry in Quebec City there is a mural on the wall in the Champlain District - a really pretty old area with lots of upmarket shops (for tourists) just like the whole of Quebec City is. Saw some gorgeous boots but weather too hot for wearing them and luggage too full, but at least this meant we saved some money. 

Next stop was the funicular railway to Dufferin Terrace, which runs in front of the Chateau Frontenac, a very imposing building, now a hotel.  Quebec is a very hilly city.

                   The Terrace

Next challenge was the 355 steps up to the Citadel - good job we'd had such a substantial breakfast, it gave us plenty of energy for the climb. 

After reaching the Plains of Abraham at the top, we set about walking 4.5km around the walls of the old city - 

once again we were greeted on our arrival,  this time by a cannon salute and a Scottish marching band

 (they had the wrong country but never mind, although there were some Celtic folk singers as well). 

There were canons everywhere, and Eric took the opportunity to 'plank' on one. 

Eric also photo bombed our picture of the fountain in front of the Parliament building.

Back to Dufferin Terrace for some street entertainment 

and a picnic from our goodie bag and then on to the maple syrup museum (free tasting).  Walking back through the historic quarters of the City Eric made friends with Guillaume Couillard (1612-1663).

Down a very very steep hill to the marina for views of the Tall Ships from around the world that are here for a festival. 

We saw the cutest dog on the return ferry -

Walking back along the shoreline to our B&B we saw a number of Osprey hunting over the St Lawrence and some as yet unknown ducks.  We had to stop to take some photos of course (and to get our breath back on the gradual climb)

     The hunting Osprey

    Undecided duck

Arrival in Quebec City

Drove the 40 miles down to Quebec City and then onto the ferry across to Levis, where our bed and breakfast was situated. The locals celebrated our arrival with a fly-past 

  

     Scene as seen from the ferry

  

Or it may have been the 90th Anniversary Celebration of the Canadian Airforce!

Arrived at the B&B - Stunning views across the St Lawrence from the verandah, including the 'Chute de la Montmorency (Montmorency Falls), apparently one and half times as high as Niagara Falls. The main road you can see at the base of the falls on the zoomed in picture is the road we drove along, but we somehow managed to miss seeing them the twice we drove past this way!

The falls are the white speck on the far shore, between the balustrade posts 

A zoomed in view.

Our host gave us a tour of her property and warned us not to step across the red wood chippings - it's a 400ft near vertical drop down to the shore.  

Eric is afraid of heights so he's looking the other way.

The Isle D'Orleans is on the right of the picture. 

The trees on either side of the terrace are home to a pair of bald eagles, yet to be seen. Also just after we left to grab some dinner the other guests saw a number of snow geese directly in front of the house.  

Our host in Levis was a Radiographer particularly using MRI scanners before she started running the B&B and became an alchemist with the cuisine...

Onward to Cap Tourmente Wildlife Reserve.

The next part of our journey took us to to Saint Joachim and Cap Tourmente Wildlife Centre. We were a bit short on time so we thought we would take the short walk to the shore, although the reserve warden said there was not a lot about as the tide was out. A very easy stroll along the boardwalk, spotting some insects along the way - 

                                                                  

                                                                

brought us to a hide overlooking the marsh.  Contrary to the warden's expectations we did have some good views of ....

Northern Harrier

                            

Green-winged Teal; American Wigeon; possible Blue-winged Teal;

and a .... Bald Eagle!  

Lots of birds around, not all identified.  The Northern Harrier and the Bald Eagle were 'putting up' the ducks on a regular basis.  Gave some good views of the Green and Blue-winged teal markings.  

On return to the information centre we noticed the feeders outside, and saw some Ruby-throated Hummingbirds - amazing things. 

Tadoussac to Quebec City

Left Tadoussac on the free ferry stopping to have a last look back from the viewpoint at Saint Catherine, giving us a view of the Prince Shoal lighthouse at sea that had been obscured by fog when we were on our Zodiac excursion.  No more views of whales today.

                                                                   

    

                                            

                                     

Looking back from Saint Catherine - our B&B is the one with the red roof.

A short stop just to have a drink and a healthy sugared doughnut resulted in a view of a red-tailed hawk sitting on the power lines.

                          

We had a pleasant drive along the coast to Baie-des-Rochers. There was only a small steep road leading there and we nearly gave up thinking it wasn't leading to anywhere with a view, only to be greeted by a quiet little cove set in a forested valley when we eventually arrived at the bottom. We also saw a heron species - still to be identified properly. 

                                                          

                                         

Our next stop was at a small village called Port au Persil (no washing powder jokes please). There was a walk down to the river mouth and views of a waterfall - the yellow house is typical of the older type of clapboard building style. 

    

                           

Back to Baie Saint Paul after a minor detour to pick up some chaussons au Pomme and other picnic goodies at St Jospeh de Rive.  We had our picnic at the harbour in the car as there was torrential rain at this point, and it was only 13 deg. C.  After this the sun came out and the temperature rocketed up to 24 deg. C. 

Breakfast with the Belugas

The morning dawned with bright sunshine (although the fog rolled in and out again later in the day). Breakfast was a new adventure today, with either waffles, maple syrup, cheese, fruit and zucchini or a full Québécois cooked breakfast, also with fruit, zucchini and cheese, but also bacon, pate, egg and sauted potatoes. The Canadians seem to have a thing about serving fruit and vegetables with breakfast. Breakfast was frequently interrupted by sightings, through the dining room window, of beluga whales in the mouth of the fjord (accompanied by quite a few oohs and aahs).

Next stop was a Zodiac boat for a whale watching trip in the St Lawrence Seaway ..... But first we had to get kitted up in suitable gear - bright orange flotation jackets and black salopettes - very becoming! The Seaway was quite calm and we stayed quite dry despite the best efforts of our captain to achieve the opposite. I think he wanted some excitement in his day, he took every opportunity to surf the wake of other boats on our way out to the whale watching area. We had the bees knees of seats, right at the front of the boat giving us some superb views of the whales (as well as the  fog and a lot of water).  When the boats stopped, this prime position allowed us to see a line of bubbles approaching us, shortly followed by the humpback whale! 

We also saw Minke, Fin whale and a fleeting glimpse of a blue whale as well as seals.

The Fin whale was one that the Captain recognised as it had a large scar on it's back where it had been hit by a boat.  We could actually see this. 

This seal was a real poser!

and a Ring-Billed Gull on a walk around the headland. 

View on the headland walk.